Pecorino is a white grape variety with roots in central Italy. Its centre of gravity is Marche, where it has been documented all the way back to 1876 around Arquata and in the province of Ancona, and today it is also widely grown in the neighbouring region of Abruzzo. Beyond that, you will find it on a smaller scale in Lazio, Umbria and Toscana. The name is said to derive from the pecorini (shepherds) who ate the grapes as they drove their flocks through the valleys.
It is a robust and undemanding variety that thrives best in cooler microclimates and clay soils with a low lime content. The yield is typically low, and the grapes are particularly rich in malic acid. This gives wines with marked acidity and a fresh, lively expression, usually with an alcohol level around 14 to 14.5 percent.
In the glass, Pecorino is often medium-bodied with herbal tones of sage, thyme and mint as well as a hint of crisp apple, pear and a balsamic nuance. The style does vary by origin, however. In Marche the wines are often made with extended skin contact, which gives more body and higher dry extract. In Abruzzo they are usually made without maceration and are thus lighter and fresher in profile.
Pecorino is used both for dry white wines from the grape alone, for mousserende vin and for sweet wines. It also features as a blending grape in several DOCs, including Offida, Falerio dei Colli Ascolani, Colli Maceratesi and Controguerra. After a period when the variety was on the verge of disappearing, it has made a strong comeback in recent years, and the area under cultivation has grown significantly since the early 2000s.
With its fresh acidity and its herbal, fruit-driven expression, Pecorino is a white wine that suits the table. It works nicely with fish and shellfish, with light salads and pasta dishes, and you can confidently give it room if you feel like exploring one of the more interesting white grapes from central Italy.