Vermentino di Gallura Superiore DOCG belongs to Gallura, the northeastern corner of Sardinia. It is one of Italy's most desolate and stony wine regions, where granite dominates and topsoil is minimal. It is precisely here that Vermentino thrives, the only permitted grape in this classification, which makes white wines and nothing else.
The area was granted DOCG status in 1996 and was at the time Sardinia's only wine with this highest Italian classification. That says something about how special the area is. The vineyards lie high, up to around 450 metres, and the combination of granitic soils and altitude gives wines with concentration and a distinctly aromatic character.
The climate is marked by warm, dry summers, but the air is cooled by the breeze from the inland mountains and by the north-facing location. The difference between day and night helps the grapes preserve their fresh acidity during ripening, and that is a large part of the explanation for why the wines seem so lively despite the southern sunshine.
In the glass you often encounter spicy aromas reminiscent of the Sardinian macchia, that is, the wild Mediterranean vegetation with notes of fennel and sage. The fruit leans towards juicy green melon with a herbal touch, and it all gives a white wine with personality and a clear imprint from the barren, sun-drenched soil it grows in.
If you have a fondness for Italian white wines with an emphasis on origin, Vermentino di Gallura Superiore is an obvious place to go exploring. It pairs nicely with fish, shellfish and light dishes, but at the same time has enough aromatic depth to stand alone as a glass in good company. For us it is a fine example of how terroir and a single grape can express a wholly distinct area of Sardinia.