Vinfremstilling for begyndere: Fra drue til glasPart 7 of 9

Ageing: How Wine Develops Flavour

Lagring: Hvordan vin udvikler smag

Welcome to part 7 of our series Winemaking for beginners: From grape to glass. In the previous parts we followed the grape from vineyard to press and on through fermentation, where must became wine. But a freshly fermented wine is rarely entirely finished. It needs time and a little peace and quiet before it reaches the glass.

In this part we take a look at ageing. This is where the wine finds its balance, rounds off its edges and develops the aromas and flavours we appreciate. Think of it as a slow-simmered dish that is allowed to sit over a low heat. Not much happens from minute to minute, but over time it transforms the whole dish.

Hvad du lærer

  • What actually happens while the wine is ageing
  • The difference between ageing wine in tank and in oak barrels
  • How the winemaker stabilises the wine so it stays attractive and fault-free
  • How aroma and flavour slowly develop over time

What happens during ageing?

When fermentation is over, the wine is young and a little unresolved. The flavours are there, but they haven't quite fallen into place yet. During ageing a slow maturation takes place, where many small changes work together and make the wine more harmonious and complex.

An important player here is oxygen, but in very small amounts. A little oxygen over time softens the wine and helps the aromas unfold, rather like a piece of meat that is allowed to rest. Too much oxygen, on the other hand, is harmful and can tire the wine out. So good ageing is largely about giving the wine precisely the small amount of air it needs, and no more.

Time and temperature also play a part. Cool and stable is the watchword, because heat makes the changes run along faster than the winemaker wants. A cool cellar is the wine's friend.

Tank, steel tank and oak barrel

Where the wine is aged matters a great deal for how it ends up tasting. The two classic choices are the steel tank and the oak barrel, and they each do their own thing.

Steel tank

A closed steel tank keeps the wine almost entirely free of oxygen. Here the fresh, fruity and floral notes the wine had after fermentation are preserved. When the winemaker chooses a steel tank, it is typically because he or she wants to hold on to a crisp and clean style. Many light white wines and fresh rosé wines do well precisely here.

Oak barrel

An oak barrel does two things at once. First, the pores of the wood let a tiny bit of oxygen seep in, so the wine matures slowly and gently. Second, the wood itself imparts flavour to the wine. This is where we get the rounded notes of vanilla, spice, toasted bread or smoke that many full-bodied red wines and a few white wines have.

A brand-new barrel imparts flavour most clearly, while a barrel that has been used before gives a more subdued character. The winemaker can therefore turn the wood's imprint up or down depending on which barrels are used. It is a little like the difference between seasoning heavily or with a light hand.

Stabilisation and clarification

Before the wine is bottled, it needs to be made clear and stable. Stabilisation simply means that the wine shouldn't change in unfortunate ways after it has been bottled. We want it to look inviting in the glass and to taste the way the winemaker intended.

A young wine can be a little cloudy because small particles are suspended in it. Over time most of them sink to the bottom, and the wine can also be gently clarified so it becomes bright and inviting. Clear wine is not necessarily better wine, but it is the style most people expect in the glass.

Cold can also be used. If the wine is kept cold, entirely natural crystals can form and separate out. These are small, harmless tartrate crystals, which are sometimes seen in the bottom of a bottle. They are a sign of a genuine product and not a fault, but many winemakers remove them in advance so the wine is clear from the start.

Finally, sulphur is used in small amounts as a kind of guard. It protects the wine against oxygen and unwanted microorganisms and is a completely ordinary and ancient part of winemaking. It helps keep the wine fresh and free of faults, from the moment the bottle is closed until you open it at home.

How aroma and flavour develop

This is where it gets really exciting. A wine's aroma is not fixed. The grape holds a whole hidden larder of aromatic compounds that lie bound up and waiting. During ageing they are slowly released, and the wine's aroma grows and becomes more nuanced.

At the same time, entirely new aromas arise along the way. The fresh, fruity young wine can develop deeper notes over time, and many feel that a mature wine smells more complex and spicy than a very young one. This explains why a wine can change character if you keep the bottle for a couple of years.

It is worth remembering that not all wines are made for long ageing. Many light, fresh white wines are at their finest while they are young and crisp, and are ready after quite a short time. Other wines, often the more full-bodied ones, benefit from patience. Both are deliberate choices, not a question of better or worse.

Kort fortalt

  • During ageing the wine matures slowly and becomes more harmonious, partly with the help of a little oxygen over time.
  • A steel tank preserves freshness and fruit, while an oak barrel gives gentle maturation and notes of vanilla, spice and smoke.
  • Stabilisation and clarification ensure that the wine stays bright, fresh and free of faults in the bottle.
  • The grape holds hidden aromatic compounds that are released during ageing, and entirely new aromas can arise along the way.
  • Some wines are drunk young and fresh, others reward patience. Both are deliberate choices.

Ofte stillede spørgsmål

Does all wine get better from being kept?

No. Most light and fresh wines are at their finest while they are young, and don't need years in the cellar. Only certain wines, often the more full-bodied ones, develop positively over a longer period. If you're in doubt, a young wine is rarely a bad choice.

What are the small crystals in the bottom of my bottle?

They are completely natural tartrate crystals, which can form when the wine has been kept cold. They are harmless and don't affect the flavour. Many people even see them as a sign of a wine that hasn't been over-processed.

Klar til næste skridt?

Now you have followed the wine all the way from grape to finished, aged bottle. In the next part, Bubbles & fortified wine: Special wine types, we look at the wines that follow their own rules, from mousserende vin to the fortified classics.

In the meantime, feel free to explore the range and notice whether a wine has been aged in steel or in barrel. That already tells you a lot about what to expect in the glass. And then remember the most important rule of all: the best wine is the one you like yourself, with the food you love. The rest is just a pleasant bonus.

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