Welcome to the second part of the series Winemaking for beginners: From grape to glass. In the first part we looked at what wine actually is. Now we are going a step further back, all the way out into the vineyard, to look at a little French word you will sooner or later come across: terroir.
Because here lies part of the explanation for why two glasses of wine made from the same grape can taste so different. It is not about magic, but about place. Let us take it slowly and without the jargon.
What you will learn
- What terroir really means, and why it is worth knowing
- How climate, soil and location leave their mark on the grapes
- How you can begin to taste the place in the glass
What does terroir mean?
Terroir is a French word that does not have a perfect English translation, but you can think of it as "the place's overall imprint". It covers everything that surrounds a vine: where in the world it grows, what the weather is like, what kind of soil it stands in, and whether the hillside faces the sun.
A good analogy is a kitchen garden. Two neighbours can sow the same tomatoes, but if one garden lies snug and south-facing and the other in shade behind a fence, the tomatoes will not taste the same. The vine is just as sensitive to its surroundings. Terroir is the sum of all the little things that together shape what ends up in the bottle.
The lovely thing about terroir is that it gives wine a sense of belonging. When a wine tastes of a particular place, it is because the place has actually left its trace in the grape.
Soil, climate and location
Let us break it down into the three big things that work together.
Climate is the grape's weather
Vines thrive best in a temperate climate, neither too cold nor too warm. They need sun to ripen the grapes, a little like an apple that grows sweeter the longer it is allowed to hang in the sun. In a warm climate the grapes ripen readily and often give round, ripe, fruity wines. In a cooler climate they ripen more slowly, and the wine typically takes on a fresher, more tart character.
There is also something called vintage. It is simply the weather in a given year. A sunny year and a rainy, cool year produce two different wines from the same vineyard. That is why most bottles carry a year.
The soil beneath your feet
The soil is the grape's pantry and at the same time its drinking water. A well-suited vineyard has a soil that can hold on to a little moisture without turning to mud, so the roots neither thirst nor drown.
The soil type itself also does something. Some soils, such as gravel and sand, are "warm" and help the grapes ripen quickly, a little like a radiator giving off heat. Others, such as clay, are cooler and slow the ripening a touch. Chalky soil sits somewhere in between and is known for giving wine a fresh and lively character.
Location makes the difference
Finally, it matters a great deal exactly where in the landscape the vineyard lies. A slope that faces the sun catches more rays and becomes warmer than a flat field. Altitude plays a part too: the higher up the mountain, the cooler it is, and the more fresh acidity the grapes retain.
If the vineyard lies close to a river or a lake, the water acts like a gentle hot-water bottle that evens out the temperature and protects against the worst of the night frost. All of them small advantages that the vine benefits from.
How to taste terroir in the glass
You do not need a trained sommelier's palate to sense terroir. Begin by noticing one single aspect: freshness.
When a wine feels crisp and fresh in the mouth, it often points towards a cooler place or a vineyard higher up. When it instead feels soft, round and full of ripe fruit, it suggests a warmer place with plenty of sun. It is the same way of thinking as with a piece of fruit: sun-ripened and sweet versus fresh and tart.
A little experiment you can do at home: taste two wines made from the same grape, but from two different countries or regions. Put words to what sets them apart. One is perhaps livelier, the other more round. It is the place you are tasting.
At the same time, remember that terroir does not stand alone. The grape variety and the winemaker's choices in the cellar are at least as important. Terroir delivers the raw material, but there are several hands at play before the wine ends up in your glass.
In short
- Terroir is "the place's imprint": the interplay between climate, soil and location.
- Warm places often give round, fruity wines, cooler places more fresh and tart ones.
- The soil type can speed up or slow down the grapes' ripening.
- Slopes facing the sun, altitude and proximity to water all shape the vineyard.
- You can begin to taste terroir by feeling for freshness versus ripe fruit.
Frequently asked questions
Can you really taste the soil in a wine?
Not like a shovelful of earth, no. But the soil affects how the grapes ripen, and you can taste that indirectly, for example as more or less freshness. It is the place's overall character that shines through, not the soil itself.
Why is there a year on the bottle?
The year, called the vintage, tells you which year the grapes were harvested. Since the weather changes from year to year, two vintages from the same vineyard can taste different. That is why it is good to know.
Ready for the next step?
Now that you have spotted how the place shapes the wine, it is time to meet the main character itself: the grape. In the next part, Grape varieties: The wine's most important ingredient, we look at how different grape varieties each leave their mark on the flavour.
Do bring your curiosity out into the range and try a couple of wines from different regions side by side. And remember: the best wine is still the one you like yourself, together with the food you love. Enjoy the journey from grape to glass.
